Attachment of uppers to soles of footwear



. luly 22, 1930. A. P. RoalNsoN E1* AL 1,771,143

t ATTACHUENT 0F UPPERS T O SOLES 0F FOOT'BAR Filed Juli, 192s 2 snmsnm 1 Julyzz, 11930 A. P., Roamson E1' A L 'wucmmw =or amas To sonas or roman Filed July 9, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented July 22, 1930 PATENT OFFICE ARTHUR PERRY ROBINSON AND HARRY KENNELL, OF NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND ATTACHMENT OF UPPERS TO SOLES 0F FOOTWEAR Application tiled July 9, 1928, Serial No. 291,386, and in Great Britain October 24, 1927.

This invention comprises improvements in the attachment of uppers to soles of footwear and has for its object to achieve important economies, improved appearance and increased ieXibility and capacity for wear as well as other advantages by dispensing with the necessity for insoles, or by the employment of a sole which combines the characteristics of outersole and insole.

Heretofore, the principal shoe-making methods which dispense with a separate insole, are those which are adapted for making pump or turn shoes and for making the socalled veldschoens. The pumps or turn shoes produced by the first method have a bulky and uncomfortable inseam and a good fit is difficult to obtain as they are made inside out and then turned. Moreover, the severity of the turning operation upon delicate or artistic materials is often damaging to such materials and calculated to spoil a desired high class appearance or artistic effect. The veldshoens are `unshapely and are principally found in the slipper or childrens footwear trade.

Shoe-making methods have also comprised stuck-on-sole processes in which the upper has been secured between the insole and the outer sole by an adhesive. Shoes produced according to such processes, however, retain their good appearance only for so long as the edge of the insole remains flat and does not become up-turned.

The foot of the wearer does not rest upon the edge or marginal portion of an insole, hence the latter must be of considerable strength if it is to withstand the upward pull of the upper.

Now according to this invention, the edge of the sole is formed with a slit or groove which may be in the plane of such sole, and the edge of the upper is introduced into and attached by adhesive in such slit or groove. The adhesive may be a rubber preparation having Waterproof qualities whereby the joint or line of attachment between sole and upper is very watertight or damp-proof.

Further, in accordance with this invention the heel portion of the sole may be completely split into two thicknesses from the back to the middle or waist portion of the sole, for example, to an imaginary line drawn between the inner and outer joints of the metatarsal arch, and a shank of suitable construction is inserted and fixed between the two thicknesses with advantageous results to be hereinafter described.

- In order to enable the invention to be readily understood, reference is made to the accompanying drawings illustrating several methods or constructions by way of example, in which drawings Figure 1 is'a perspective view of a last with a split or groove sole attached thereto and an v upper passed on to the last and ready for being pulled over for attachment to the sole.

Figure 2 is an enlarged cross-section on the line II-II of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a perspective view showing the upper pulled over and attached to the in ner lip of the split or grooved edge of the sole.

Figure 4 is a cross-section through the in step portion of the last and shoe thereon, this view showing the upper-l as finally attached to the sole.

Figure 5 is a side elevation of one type of finished shoe as produced by a process of manufacture comprising the steps illustrated by Figures 1 to 4.

Figure G is a cross-section on the line VI-VI of Figure 5.

Figure 7 is a sectional view `illustrating another step in the process of manufacture.

Figures 8 to 11 are cross-sections illustrat- Figure 13 is a perspective View of a modified construction of shank. y

Figure 14 is a cross-section on the line XIV--XIV of Figure 13.

Figure 15 is a lperspective view, and Figure 16 is across-section on the line -XVI-XVI of Fig. 15, of another modified construction of shank.

In carrylng out one method of manufacture in accordance with these improvements,

a sole piece is cut and rounded to the desired shape which is approximately one-eighth of an inch larger than the bottom of the last excepting at the heel seat. This operation is suitably carried out on a Julian sole rounding machine fitted with blocks or templates adapted\for the cuttingand rounding of the sole to the size which is larger than usual as explained. The edge of this sole is then channeled or split in the plane thereof tothe depth of, say, three-eights of an inch, the sole is dampened and the outer lip c is turned up so as to disclose the inner lip or thickness d, and the sole is tacked on to the last by the tacks e as seen in Figure l, wherein a is the last and b is the sole tacked thereon, the edge of such sole being split around the greater part of its contour to form an outer lip c and an inner lip d. The heel portion of the sole may be split right through, the inner thickness being tacked to the last but theouter thickness a is free for the time being and is shown bent upwards in Figure 1. A reinforcing piece of leather or other material a2 is secured by ntacks on the inner thickness and provides body for the reception of the nails which later are driven through to secure the heel.

T he edge of the lip d is trimmed or rounded to the dimensions of the last. For most leather shoes, the uppers f are cut slightly larger than the'exact size and the linings g are cut one quarter of an inch smaller than the exact size of the uppers and may be stuck to the uppers. The usual toe puff Q and stifi'ener are inserted between the upper f and lining g and secured by means of adhesive solution before applying the now complete upper to the last. The middle surface of the lip d that is the surface which will come into contact with the upper is treated with two successive coatings of rubber solution and the marginal edge portion of the upper f beyond the edge of the lining g is also treated with rubber solution. The upper being applied to the last, as seen in Figure l, is now pulled-over the last. Around the heel portion, the upper is tacked to the last. The fore 'part and waist are now lasted up and after the stretch has been taken out of the upper the tacks are removed and the underside of the upper edge is again tre-ated with adhesive and also the middle surface of lip d. The marginal edge portion of the upper f is now pressed on and caused to adhere to the lip d as seen in Figure 3, by the adhesive solution. Owing to the stresses imposed upon the upper leather around the toe by the toe wiping of the bed laster it is imJT portant to retain the toe formation accurately. For this purpose a bracing wire Z Figure 7 is generally applied to the toe portion until the adhesive has set. For example, two pins are driven through the inner lip d at about the points Figure 3, and the wire Z, Figure 7, is attached at one end to one of the pins a2 and is carried tightly around the toe in the channel between the lips c and d and secured to the other one of the pins Around the heel part of the last. the upper is formed to the last, seat lasting is performed by a consul machine which produces the gathered or pleated edge portion of f overlapping the reinforcement a2. this portion being secured by tacks j.

Surplus upper material is now trimmed away from the edge thereof, thc wire Z is removed and the edge of the upper is pushed snugly into the depth of the channel or split by the aid of a flat dull-edge instrument.

The outer surface of the marginal edge portion of the leather of the upper is now buffed to remove the grain or to remove enamel or other coating as in the case of a patent leather or enamelled shoe leather. The buifed surface is treated with two coatings of strong adhesive, the under surface of the lip c being likewise treated after being roughened if necessary. The lip c is now dampened and a coating of solvent is applied to the previously applied layers of adhesive causing them to How and become tacky whereupon the lip c is laid and pressed flat on to the inturned edge of the upper as seen in Figure 4. The edge of the lip c projects slightly all round because the inner lip d was trimmed down in the earlier stages as above explained.

If desired, and as illustrated in Figure 8, the inturned edge of the upper f may be stitched to the inner lip l before the outer lip c is fastened down. the stitching being indicated at m in this figure. As a further modification, the stitching may also be carried into the outer lip c as illustrated in Figure 9. This may be accomplished by channeling or splitting the lip at n Figure 9, thereby forming a small lip or flap which can be turned back to permit the stitching m to pass through a portion of the thickness of the lip c as well as through the lip d and upper f. After this stitching has been performed, the small lip or flap may be stuck down by adhesive. as seen in Figure 9.

If the insertion of the edge of the upper should cause thickening of such edge, as shown in Figure 10, it is quite permissible to remove part of such thickness. as for example that part o which is indicated by the shaded portion of the section. This is usually the flesh side of the leather so that the removal may conveniently be made at this place. However, av part of the thickness can be removed at the inner surface of the lip d if desired. This removal of leather is without adverse effect on the wearing capacity, as the amount of wear is less at the edge in view of the greater pressure at the middle portion of the sole.

In some cases, it may be desirable for the edge of the sole to have an appearance of extreme thinness.'VA For this purpose, channelling at an angle from the plane of the sole may be adopted, and maybe carried out as illustrated in Figure 11, so that the edge of the lip c is very thin. The edge of the 4inner lip d is correspondingly thickened but this lies Within the upper f and is not seen.

Although in the foregoing constructions the edge of the lining g has been cut short of the 'edge of the upper f so as not to enter the channel or split in the sole, nevertheless with certain classes of shoes it may be desirable to insert the edge of the lining together with the edge of the upper. For example. in light shoes in Which the uppers are of fabric or flimsy substance, the lining may be the principal support instead of the upper. In

such shoes, the lining would be cut to the same dimensions as the upper and the edge of such lining would be secured With the edge of the upper in the channel or split by means of the adhesive as hereinbefore described with particular reference to leather uppers.

In trimming the outer lip c, this need not be trimmed back as far as the lip d, so that the lip c will project slightly beyond the inner lip Z as seen in several of the constructions illustrated. A As the inner sole and outer sole are one integral piece in these shoes it follows that the inside lip d Which supports land shapes the upper can be relied upon always to have a definitely fixed position in relation to the outside edge of the sole. This is notthe case when separate inner soles and outer soles are used.

In some makes of shoe, it has been the custom to pare a-Way the edge portion of the inner surface of the outer sole, so that such edge portion is bevelled and has the appearw ance externally of a very thin sole. However, When the edge of such a sole is finally rounded up, the bevelled portion is removed moreat. one place than at another, as demanded by the trimming, with the consequence that the solethickness appears greater in some places than it does at others. This defective appearance cannot occur with shoes made in accordance With these improvements.

-Many materials at present desirable for fancy foot-Wear Will not sta-nd the severity of the turn shoe methods but are liable to be damaged thereby. other materials with enamelled decorations,

incrustation work, hand painted decoration, embroidered designs (particularly where the For example, leathers or must be symmetrical or appropriately disposed in relation to a shoe part, this can be achieved with the improved constructions above described with certainty and Without difficulty.

If the shoe is to have a built up leather heel the heel portion of the sole need not be split. If the shoe is to have a shaped Wooden or other heel, as in Figure 5, the said heel portion is split and the inner split a3 is attached by nails driven into it from inside the shoe as aforesaid, and the outer lsplit a at the heel portion of the sole is stuck to the front face of the heel and trimmed to such face as Will be clear from Figures 5 and 6.

Referring to Fi ure 12, it will be seen that the heel portion o the sole is completely split through for a greater length than in Figure 1, with the result that the outer thickness a' can be lifted up from the inner thickness a about a hinge line which will extend across the sole approximately from the inner joint to the outer joint. `The remainder of the sole, namely the fore part extending from the Waist to the toe has its edge portion only slit or grooved in accordance With the method hereinbefore described. The thickness of the outer split a" may be such as to give a neat edge to the finished Waist and in most cases Will probably be less than the thickness of the outer lip c of the fore part of the sole. A shank s which may be a strip of spring steel is secured as b riveting, along the centre of the inner sp it a3 as shown so that in the completed shoe this shank does not come against the foot of the wearer but is covered and protected by the inner split a". An advantageous construction of shank is seen in Figures 13 and 14, wherein the spring steel strip s is riveted along a supporting member t of fibre, leather, or other substance which serves for distributing the rigidity or extending the area of influence of the steel strip s. The supporting member t may be of only little greater length than the-strip s, or as shown it may comprise a seat reinforcing piece t and may be cut to the same size and shape as the inner split as, Figure 12, after such split a3 has been reduced to the same size as the bottom of the last. Excepting at the seat portion t', the member t is Aformed with av Well tapered skive at the edge as shown clearly in Figures 13 and 14. The composite shank, Figures 13 and 14, may be secured 'to the middle surface of the inner split as, Figure 12, at first by adhesive and loo instead of skiving, that surface which is faced towards the inside of the shoe is of rounded cross section, as will be clear from Figure 16.

The above described methods of inserting the shank present several advantages. lncreased comfort is given to the wearer as the inside of the shoe is perfectly smooth and level and the inside appearance of the shoe also is improved. It is desirable that the exterior of the waist of the shoe should be convex and this convexity is easily obtained as a result of this improved method of inserting the shank, particularly when the coniposite shank` Figures 13 and 14, is employed. There is an improved appearance due to the lightness of the edge appearing at the waist and such lightness may be of anv desired degree for the edge of the outer split a may be appropriately reduced leaving the body part of the split a of any desired substance or thickness. Finally, there is greater security against displacement of the shank s,

edges of the fore part. This difficulty is entirely overcome by splitting the sole right across in its aft part as above described, and the production of shoes is considerably simplified and improved.

Shoes made in accordance with these iinprovements possess the following advantages z-They have a much neater appearance than heretofore, for the apparent edge of the sole may be as thin as cardboard. They are much lighter because there is no welt, insole, bottom filling or sole reinforcement, they possess an enduring elegance because of the firm foundation'afforded by one solid sole. They give greater comfort owing to absence of the hurtful inseams and bottom fillings or reinforcements which become uneven. They will wear longer than other shoes owing to Ithe insole and outer sole being united in one solid piece. They are Waterproof owing to the absence of stitching and the rubber adhesive not only makes a watertight joint but also fortifies the edge of the sole. They possess greater flexibility' owing to the aforesaid absence of separate insole and bottom filling.- They are more economical as they can be produced with a saving of materials, the method of manufacture being simplified and several costl operations dispensed with. They are noiseless in wear as they do not have the usual surfaces which rub and cause squeaking. They are readily repair-able by sewing or stuck-on methods.

If desired a shank can be secured inside the waist and a sock placed over the same. This shank or sock cannot be mistaken for a bottom filling which would fill the cavity between the outer and the inner sole in niost types of footwear. In turn shoe work a left shoe is partially made on a right last and a right shoe on a left last and difficulties and defects arise if the right last is different in shape or dimensions from the left last. In the manufacture in accordance with these improvements such defects and difficulties aie avoided completely.

The advantages of the invention have been described principally by making comparisons with turn shoe work. The reason for this is that heretofore the turn shoe methods have been the method by which the lighest and neatest shoes have been produced.

lVe claim 1. The method of attaching uppers to soles of footwear comprising splitting the edge of the sole, upturning the outer one of the two lips formed by the splitting, treating the inner lip thus disclosed and the edge of the upper with adhesive, pulling over the upper, and causing its treated edge to adhere to such inner lip, Vapplying and tightening a bracing wire around the toe portion for retaining the upper after pulling over and until the adhesive has set, and finally treating the outer lip with adhesive, removing the bracing wire, and pressing the outer lip down flat so as to cause it to adhere to the edge portion of the upper.

2. A method of making boots and shoes on a last, comprising preparing a sole from suitable material, splitting the edge of such sole, upturning one of the two lips formed by the splitting, supplying a last having a portion of its sole supporting face smaller than said sole, securing the sole to the last with the upturned lip outwardly disposed, trimming the unturned lip to the last, treating the exposed surface of the unturned lip and the inner marginal edge portion of an upper with adhesive, applying the upper to the last, pulling over the upper and causing its treated marginal edge portion to adhere to such inner lip, trimming the extreme edge of said upper so that such edge will lie snugly within the split separating the lips, bufling the outer marginal edge portion of the upper, treating such buffcd portion and the inner surface of the upturned lip with rubber adhesive, and finally pressing flat said upturned lip so as to cause it to adhere to the buffed edge portion of the upper.

3. A method of making boots and shoes on a last, comprising preparing a sole from suitable material, splitting the edge of such sole at an angle to the plane thereof so as to produce a thin edged lip and a thick edged lip, upturning the outer lip, supplying a last having a portion of its sole supporting face smaller than said sole. securing the sole to the last with the upturned lip outwardly disposed, trimming the inner lip to the last, treating the exposed surface of the inner lip and the inner marginal edge portion of the upper with rubber adhesive, applying an upper to the last, pulling over the upper and causing its treated marginal edge portion to adhere to the inner lip, trimmin the extreme edge of said upper so'that suc edge will lie snugly Within the split sepeb rating the lips, buing the outer marginal edge portion of the upper, treat-ing such bufl'ed portion and the inner surface of the upturned lip with rubber adhesive, and nally pressing flat said upturned lip so as to cause it to adhere to the bued edge p0rtion of the upper.

ARTHUR PERRY ROBINSON.

HARRY KENNELL. 

